Time to tell you about what I can safely say is my favorite experience of Afghanistan so far...
Bamyan
Nestled high in a valley between two mountain ridges, Bamyan sits at approximately 8200 feet above sea level. The city is quite isolated which gives claim to its rich cultural history.
Bamyan encompasses the history of the Buddhists, Mongols, and Muslims all in one location. In these modern times the area is relatively well separated from the conflict that grips most of the country. We are told that it is actually quite safe to walk around in town, and the UN Security Threat Level is Very Low.
This is a stark contrast to various periods in Bamyans history including an invasion by the infamous Warlord, Genghis Khan...
In the rock cliffs along the valley walls, lies a rich Buddhist history, much of which is now in ruins. Massive statues of what were believed to be Buddha were carved into giant openings in the canyon walls. There are also caves that contained a rich collection of Buddhist relics and documents, likened to the finding of the Dead Sea Scrolls. In 2008 the world oldest Oil Painting were found in this very city.
UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) has declared Bamyan a World Heritage Site. You can read about it here.
Cultural Landscape and Archaeological Remains of Bamyan
Unfortunately due to the extremist Taliban Government in power in Afghanistan's Past. Many of these Buddhist statues have been destroyed. The world largely objected to the destruction of this history, including members from within the Taliban itself. Over 400 religious and theological scholars debated for months, amid offers from other countries to buy and relocate the articles to preserve them from destruction.
After much deliberation however, the statues were destroyed under the ruling that they were "Buddhist Idols and and Affront of Islam. Worshiping Idols is Forbidden in Islam and they must be destroyed..."
This was only the most recent attack on these statues, but proved to be successful after a great struggle. Back in the 1800's the statues were defaced with the largest having its head and hands blown off. It remained in this condition until 2001.
When the Taliban elected to destory them once and for all, it took weeks of shelling with artillery and mortars. The statues remained steadfast which enraged the Taliban even more. They placed anti-tank mines at the base of the statues, so that pieces that were blown off would inflict more damage as they landed on the mines and set them off as well.
In a final act of desperation, the statues were bored full of holes and filled with explosives... After the smoke and dust cleared, their brutal success was revealed. This is all that remains...
One of the Buddha's once stood here...
Ironically enough, their attack on this history also had unintended results. The destruction of the statues revealed more caves that had never before been seen, and were now able to be explored.
For those who are brave enough (extremely brave given the current situation in Afghanistan), there is also an Adventure Tourism company here that will take you to Bamyan to visit some of these sites.
You can see in the photo, the many openings to the various caves and passages from the rich history here.
Across the Valley from the Buddha's coves. Lies another very important piece of history in the Bamyan area..
Shohr-e Gholghola
"The City of Screams"
Built in the 6th Century AD, it stood as the most formidable city and fortress in the entire region for nearly 650 years An integral stop on the Silk Road from Asia to Europe and Africa, this is how Bamyan received its rich deposits of cultural history.
During The Siege of Bamyan in 1221, the city earned the name by which it is now known.
The Mongol Hordes under the command of Genghis Khan himself, were in pursuit of Jalal ad-Din Mingburnu, last leader of the Khwarezmian Empire, which covered most of the middle east, including Pakistan, Iran, Turkmenistan, and half of what is now Afghanistan.
As the most heavily fortified area in the Ghorid Empire, Bamyan held out with great ferocity and strength during these Mongol Invasions.
The Mongols suffered massive casualties during the months-long siege, including Mutugen (Grandson of Genghis Khan himself). The infuriated leader completely surrounded the city, occupying the entire area, cutting off food and water supplies.
The city still held strong until the ruler, Jalaladin, was betrayed by his own daughter. She divulged the location of the secret entrance to the nearly impervious city. Offering herself to Khan proved to be futile, and in his fit of rage over fear of his own mortality, he killed her.
After her death, Khan ordered that the entire population of the city and surrounding area be slaughtered. The destruction and massacre was so "complete" that the Mongols referred to the region as the City of Sorrows and the scant survivors named it the "City of Screams" as a result of the horrible sounds of the death and destruction.
History goes on to say that Khan wiped out the entire population and replaced them with his own soldiers and their slave women, to maintain control of the region. These people would be known as the Hazara, from the Dari / Persion word "Yak Hazar" (One Thousand), giving testament to the 1000 Mongol Soldiers left behind in the region.
The Hazara people, who look more Mongolian than Middle Eastern, still populate the region to this day.
Shohr-e Gholghola as seen from the Parking Area at the Airport
As you can see, it is extremely close to the runway end.
Bamyan Today from 24,000 ft
Square at Center is the start of the Runway
Small Hill In the middle of the green is the Shor-e Gholghola
(Enroute to Maymana)
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